TAIWAN TRIP REPORT, November 10–19, 2003   Printable Version

Text:  Jo Ann MacKenzie

LEADERS:  Simon Liao and Ten-Di Wu

Ten-Di Wu and Simon Liao

(E) = Endemic

            Taiwan is a mountainous island in the South China Sea, about 140 km (90 miles) off the Chinese mainland.  The forested beauty of the island led Portuguese sailors in 1590 to name it Ilha Formosa, meaning “Beautiful Island.” The tropic of Cancer passes through the southern part of the island.

This trip was similar to our very successful trip last March, in that it took us to varied habitats.  However, most destinations were different from our previous trip, and we saw more bird species.

Monday-Tuesday, Nov. 10-11;  Day 1:  Vancouver, BC, Canada to Kukwang, Taiwan

Our EVA Airways flight departed Vancouver at 1:00 a.m. on Monday, Nov. 10, and arrived at Chiang Kai Shek International Airport at 6:15 a.m. after a flight of over 13 hours (about an hour late, due to strong headwinds) on Tuesday, Nov. 11.  We were soon away, headed south.  In the small city of Tongshih (northeast of Taichung), we picked up co-leader Ten-Di Wu, and our group, now consisting of 10, proceeded to the wetlands of the Dajshi River.  Birds of this lowland habitat included Plumbeous Redstart, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Black Drongo, Brown Shrike, White Rumped Munia, and Nutmeg Mannikin.

Moving inland and up, we birded our way to Dragon Valley Recreation Area, examining the Dajshi River as we went, for a Brown Dipper that was seen by some of the group.  We arrived at the town of Kukwang, and our overnight accommodation at the Police Office Resort.  Afternoon birding around the resort was hampered by strong wind, but we managed to find Daurian Redstart and Varied Tit.  We escaped the wind by driving into a side valley where we birded until sunset, seeing Crested Serpent-Eagle, Whistling Green Pigeon, Gray Treepie, Gray-capped Woodpecker and Black Bulbul.

Wednesday, Nov. 12:  Day 2:  Kukwang to An Ma Shan Forest Reserve

Some of the group were up and out before 4:30 a.m., trying unsuccessfully to see a calling Collared Scops-Owl.  A FORMOSAN WHISTLING-THRUSH (E) was also calling, and glimpsed.  As daylight advanced we climbed the Shaulai Trail above the hotel area, finding Yellow-browed Warbler, Black-browed Barbet, Gray Treepie and Gray-chinned Minivet.

Leaving Kukwang, we retraced part of yesterday’s drive back to Hsinche, then northeast again toward An Ma Shan Forest Reserve.  On the way, we stopped at Km 15, and had excellent luck when we walked through a farming area just off the main road.  There were almost too many birds to look at in the lush foliage lining a small stream:  Collared Finchbill, Vinous-throated Parrotbill, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Arctic Warbler, Black-naped Monarch, Rufous-capped Babbler, Gray-cheeked Fulvetta, Daurian Redstart and Nutmeg Mannikin.  A Rusty Laughing-Thrush was heard in a thicket.

We were lucky, both in seeing a snake at all, that it was small, and that no harm resulted.  A person bitten by this species has a 50% chance of survival.

We continued up the road to the bend at Km. 21, where we had a view over the valley below.  Birds seen included TAIWAN TIT (E), WHITE-EARED SIBIA (E), Crested Serpent Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Black-throated Tit and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. 

By mid-afternoon, we arrived at the An Ma Shan Forest Reserve entrance, at 2000 m (6561 ft.) elevation, and 210 Trail.  Except for three Eurasian Jays and some smaller passerines, birdlife was very quiet, so we continued on to the An Ma Shan Resort (Snow Mountain Resort) at 2300 m (7546 ft.) elevation, which would be our base for the next day-and-a-half.  After settling into our comfortable cabins, we explored the forested grounds.  At this “high mountain” elevation, we anticipated more endemics.  The first were some STEERE’S LIOCICHLA (E) calling loudly as they foraged in the leaf litter, and TAIWAN BARWING (E) feeding in shrubs.  A Brown-headed Thrush and a party of Eye-browed Thrush moved through the trees overhead.  A Gray-faced Woodpecker flew by.  We headed into the resort restaurant for supper.  The night was cold, and we were glad that the beds had warm duvets.

Thursday, November 13:  Day 3:  An Ma Shan Forest Reserve

At chilly 5:30 a.m., we started our drive to Km 39, to the 2100 m (6889 ft.) elevation and 220 Trail.  Along the trail at dawn, we heard TAIWAN PARTRIDGE (E) (two of the group were able to see one, the only sighting of this species on the trip); and the first MIKADO PHEASANT (E), again seen by only a few.  As the sun rose higher and the temperature climbed, more birds were found:  COLLARED BUSH ROBIN (E), Ashy Wood Pigeon, and White-browed Bush Robin.  We heard monkeys, then saw a troupe of Taiwan Macaque working the trees high above the trail.

We returned to An Ma Shan Resort in mid-morning, and saw more Taiwan Barwing, White-eared Sibia, Steere’s Liocichla, and a White-browed Bush Robin.

In late morning, we boarded our bus again, and drove to Hsiao Xai Shan, the highest elevation of the trip, at 2600 m (8530 ft.) where we added some new species to our Trip List:  WHITE-WHISKERED LAUGHINGTHRUSH (E), FLAMECREST (E), Gray-headed Bullfinch, Streak-throated Fulvetta, Eurasian Nutcracker, Vinaceous Rosefinch, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler, and Russet Bush-Warbler.

Friday, November 14;  Day 4:  An Ma Shan Forest Reserve to Douliu, Yunlin County.

A 5:30 a.m. start once again, to return to 210 Trail to look for Mikado Pheasant.  The pheasant family that we hoped to see near the beginning of the trail did not appear, so the group split up, some of us walking the trail as quietly as possible with Ten-Di, the others staying back with Simon, watching (in vain) for the pheasant family.  Comparing notes later, those with Ten-Di had walked 2-3 km along the trail, and tallied 4 Mikado Pheasant and 2 SWINHOE’S PHEASANT (E).

TAIWAN YUHINA (E) was common during our days in the high mountains, with over 100 of the small birds seen.

It was time to leave the An Ma Shan Forest Reserve, and we drove down toward the lowlands.  On the way, a Chinese Bamboo Partridge dashed across the road.  Arriving at the old city of Lukang, we ate a delicious mostly-seafood lunch, and visited the nearby Matsu Temple, which has stood for 400 years.

In mid-afternoon, when the tide had retreated, we went to Hambao, on the coast of Taiwan Strait.  Among the species seen were Saunders’ Gull, Terek and Common Sandpipers, Gray-tailed Tattler, Common Greenshank, Red-necked Stint, and 400 Ruddy Turnstone.  Taiwan is the most important wintering area in East Asia for Ruddy Turnstone.

Driving on to the city of Douliu, we settled into the very comfortable Metro Hotel.

Saturday, November 15:  Day 5:  Douliu to Tainan

Senator Eva Yu and some local birders accompanied us to Pillow Mountain to see bamboo habitat of the Fairy Pitta.  No pitas were present at this time of year, but we walked through bamboo forest, noting Black-browed Barbet, Black-naped Monarch, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, with glimpses of Malayan Night-Heron.  Following the walk, we stopped at the Fairy Pitta Visitor Centre in Huben village.

Proceeding to the coast, we had a lunch at the appropriately-named Dong Shr (“It’s Delicious”) seafood restaurant, followed by birding at the Puzih River, where we found a Black-tailed Gull among the ducks and waders, Whiskered and White-winged Tern, and a Cinnamon Bittern.  In the Auogo wetland, we saw 5 White-breasted Waterhen and a Barred Buttonquail.

In Tainan in the evening, we enjoyed a traditional noodle supper at the 108-year-old Tantsi noodle house.

Sunday, November 16:  Day 6:  Tainan to Kenting

After breakfast, we went to the Shihthau Reserve for more shorebirding.  There were many herons and egrets, a Yellow Bittern, many Common Moorhen, Black-winged Stilt, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-necked Stint, Little Ringed Plover, Snowy Plover and East Siberian Gull.

Continuing to the Tsengwen River mouth, there is a well-developed viewing station for observation of the wintering flock of over 500 Black-faced Spoonbill with many interpretive displays.  This was a major stop on our route, and we spent some time observing the spoonbills and other waders. After lunch, Jo Ann MacKenzie on behalf of our group, was presented with a Black-faced Spoonbill painting by Mr. Chen-Yao Tai, Deputy Minister, Council of Agriculture, Executive Yuan. 

Next we went to Kwangtien wetland, where we saw several Pheasant-tailed Jacana.  Researcher H. W. Chang explained the conservation work being done to maintain the habitat necessary for the survival of Taiwan’s small population of this nationally endangered “Water Chestnut Bird.” A group photo was taken, which was kindly forwarded to us by Li-Juin Lin (Una).

We drove south to Kenting, Taiwan’s tropical Far South, arriving after dark.  Following supper, we walked through the Night Market before returning our rooms in the Police Office Resort.  The weather was windy, and threatening showers.

Monday, November 17:  Day 7:  Kenting to Chaiyi

Our “target bird” in the far south was STYAN’S BULBUL (E), restricted to the south and east of the island, and which we found to be fairly common in the Kenting area.  The very common Light-vented Bulbul is also found in the south (as well as much of the rest of the island), and the two species sometimes interbreed.  We walked the Lighthouse Trail in Long Luan Tan Nature Reserve.  Conditions remained hot, humid and very windy, normal for this time of year.  Birds were few, but we found an out-of-range Emerald Dove.

We moved on to Long Luan Tan Lake, where most of the birds, water birds and passerines alike, sought shelter from the wind.  Hundreds of wintering Tufted Duck and some Garganey bobbed on the lake.  The Visitor Centre was equipped with a long row of spotting scopes mounted along the window ledge facing the water.  We could sit down and scan in comfort, out of the wind.  Leaving Long Luan Tan Lake, we drove north.  At a brief stop along the way, we spotted 2 late-migrating Gray-faced Buzzards overhead.

After lunch, we went to Inda Eco Farm, where we expected to need a couple of hours to track down Black-naped Oriole, which, in Taiwan is found only in the far south.  However, within 5 minutes, Ten-Di heard one call; then we saw it, moving between tall trees.

We headed back north, arriving in the city of Chaiyi and the very comfortable China Trust Hotel.  After a light supper, we spent the evening browsing through the busy Night Market. 

            Tuesday, November 18:  Day 8:  Chaiyi to Changhua

            Local birders led a bird walk in the Chaiyi County hills.  We saw Collared Owlet, Black-naped Monarch, Rufous-faced Warbler, Plumbeous Redstart, Rufous-capped Babbler, Dusky and Gray-cheeked Fulvettas, Green-backed Tit, Eurasian Siskin, Oriental Honey-Buzzard and Mountain Hawk Eagle.  We found another Many-banded Krait on the road; this one about 1 metre long, and truly dead.

            We returned to Chaiyi, and to the well-treed Chaiyi Agricultural Experimental Station to look for Malayan Night-Heron which is usually reliable there.  We saw 3 of these secretive birds.

            After lunch, we drove toward Changhua.  We detoured into an area of rice stubble fields with brushy edges at Huatan, to walk the fields and edges for Black-faced Bunting, which was common.  We spent an hour there, with birds everywhere.  Comparing notes afterward, some of the species seen were:  Common Snipe, Oriental Skylark, Yellow Wagtail, Zitting Cisticola, Golden-headed Cisticola, Siberian Rubythroat, and Yellow Bunting.  This area has great potential!

            On to Changhua and the Formosa Hotel.  Supper was hosted by the Changhua Wild Bird Society.  Following the meal, Ming-Hui Liao, Director of the Changhua Wild Bird Society, and I, as Past President of the British Columbia Field Ornithologists, signed a Memorandum of Agreement to partner the CHWBS and BCFO.